Children, Patterns

Stubborn Little Coat free pattern

This pattern is available for 1.5-6 year old children. It’s unisex, will fit both girls and boys.
My coat is made from boucle and lined with French Terry, sleeve lining is jersey, you can, of course, use different fabrics.
Try to stick with medium to heavyweight or go for a size smaller as it would be roomier. I recommend making a toile first.

Now I don’t know whether it’s the coat or maybe just bad luck. But everything was just trying to drag me away from it or tools were going missing. It was as if this coat never wanted to be sewn!

Scroll to the bottom of the post to download the pattern 🙂


Print on A4 paper or A0. Start with the first page and make sure the test box is 5 x 5 cm.
You can try printing on different paper format but always select printing to 100%. Let me know if you have any issues.

Always try to make a toile before cutting through your favourite fabric

How to join your pattern pages together:

If you’re not sure which size to choose, check the measurements chart https://midnightsewer.com/measurements-charts/

Recommended fabrics:

Medium to heavyweight fabric like boucle or similar fabric for outer layer, lining fabric, slinky for sleeves. I used French Terry for body lining and polyester jersey for sleeves.

I also recommend using iron-on medium interfacing, ideally woven, it would give your coat a shape.

NO SEAM ALLOWANCES ADDED.

Fabric requirements:

Fabric width: 140cm
Length:
1.5-3 years 1.1m of main fabric and lining
4-6 years 1.2m of main fabric and lining

Cutting:

From the main fabric:
Front x2 (1 mirrored pair)
Back x1 on fabric fold
Hood middle part x1
Hood side part x2 (1 pair)
Sleeves x2 (1 pair)
Pocket x2
Front facing x2, Back facing x1 on fold, hood middle part facing x1 and side facings x2

From lining fabric:
Front lining x2
Back lining x1 on fabric fold
Hood middle part lining x1
Hood side lining x2 (1 pair)
Sleeve lining x2 (1 pair)

CUT YOUR FRONT AND BACK FACING AND LINING PIECES 3cm SHORTER

Pocket piece is not on the pattern. I thought about it afterwards. It’s easy to draw 🙂 Just choose a desired size and shape and add seam allowances. Wonky Bear jacket tutorial will give you all the hints that you need to add a beautiful pocket.

Below you can see how I’ve cut outer and inner layer pieces. Cut whole blocks as an outer layer and split them for the inner layer. You can also see where I ironed on interfacing.

WHEN SPLITTING FRONT AND BACK PIECES INTO LINING AND FACING, TRACE PIECES SEPARATELY, YOU NEED TO ADD SEAM ALLOWANCES TO BOTH SIDES OF THE LINES.

OUTER LAYER
INNER LAYER

Instructions (of course this is my preferred method, you can do it differently):

1. Add seam allowances, don’t forget to square seam allowances and cut the pattern. Cut your fabric. Press with an iron after each step.

2. Sew together outer pieces of your coat and inner layer as in the picture below. I stitched sides first and set in the sleeves afterwards as they have a bit of ease in the cap and it’s easier that way. If you want your coat to have pockets, now it’s the best time to add them.

3. Sew hood pieces together with right sides of fabrics together. Corner needs clipping at 45 degrees and hood main seams might need clipping too. Once this step is completed, turn your hood inside out.

4. Sew sides of both coat layers, remember that the inner layer is shorter by 3cm. Don’t stitch it all the way don though as I just did, mistake, sorry. Leave approx. 2cm at the bottom.

5. Don’t turn it inside out just yet. Grade seam allowances, trim the ones from facing shorter than from the main fabric.
Add hood and loop at the top, between both layers. It might be easier if you baste stitch by hand before running it through the machine as it’s quite a few layers.

6. Make a horizontal stitch joining facing and main fabric together.
My seam allowance here is 1cm so I sewn 1cm from the facing edge and unpicked 2cm from the bottom of the vertical stitch.

7. Cut away a rectangle at the bottom from the main fabric as in the picture below. Be careful not to cut too much! So approx. 2cm less than the facing. The corner on the left will need clipping at 45 degrees.

9. Pull your lining to the bottom edge of the outer layer and stitch together. Stitch bottom but leave 15cm opening in the middle, you’ll need it to turn the coat inside out.
I know this is an awkward step but this is a neat way of doing it. Once you turn it inside out there will be a 1cm gap that will need closing where lining meets the facing. I stitched it by hand and slip stitched bottom of the coat.

10. I’ve stitched sleeves by hand and topstitched the coat around the front, neckline and hood. Add sew-in fasteners.

11. Add bows and take your little one out to the park in the new coat 🙂

If you do have any issues with the pattern or need help with sewing just contact me on Facebook 🙂 Enjoy!